War Thunder - German Starter Pack Cracked
War Thunder - German Starter Pack Crackers
A guide of the reserve tanks for all of the trees in War Thunder, how they work and how to become lord king of murder mountain with them. Joyce lifts manual 2017 . This guide is a basic lineup of all the reserve tanks as well as a few oddballs that youre going to unlock within the first few matches. Which are good, bad and astoundingly terrible. With that said, I shall do this in order of the line up in game, so US, Germany, Soviets, Brits, Japan, Italy and finally France. America starts off with two reserve tanks alongside one that youre going to be gunning for first because American Tank Destroyers can be incredibly powerful against Soviet tanks at 3.0.
Seriously, do not doubt the power of the M3 75mm or the M10.
War Thunder - Japanese Pacific Campaign (1941-1943) Level.
The A-7D is the USAF version of the A-7 Corsair II naval strike aircraft, developed in the mid 1960s by Ling-Temco-Vought as a replacement for the Douglas A-4 Skyhawk. Soon, pilots will have the chance to take control of the successor to the popular Skyhawk as it arrives in War Thunder with the release of the next major update!
War Thunder: German Starter Pack Only At $5.99. View Deal Expire: 13-12-20. War Thunder: 2500 Golden Eagles Only For $16.50.
War Thunder - German Starter Pack is provided via activation key. For key redemption, a free War Thunder account is required as well as free game client from official website.This Pack includes: SdKfz 140/1 tank (Rank 1 Germany); He 112 B-1/U2 fighter (Rank 1 Germany); 120000 Silver Lions; Premium Account for 7 days. SdKfz 140/1 The invasion of the USSR demonstrated that German APCs werent.
To start off however, we have the one off tank to start you down American light tanks, the LVT(A)(1).
The LVT series of vehicles were landing craft used heavily by the US Marine Corps during the island hopping campaigns in the Pacific. The idea was to have treads for climbing onto beach heads as well as propellers to sail out from landing ships, and these LVTs would be famously nicknamed Amtraks as a result. For fire support, the (A)(1) was developed mounting a M3A1 Stuart turret which was quickly found to lack suitable punch to deal with enemy fortifications which would lead to later variants mounting the turret found on the M8 GMC.
In-game, the LVTs a fairly potent tank but not really for front line duels. The thin Amtrak armor makes it a target for anyone with a bone to pick and your only advantage is the sheer amount of men that you can pull in once some BT-5 takes out your turret. The 37mm cannon is one of the best starting guns in the game and if you know where to hit, will easily one shot any target you come across. While good, your main RP maker will come with the next tank.
The M2A4 is the final variant of the M2 series of tanks that descend all the way from the original Rock Island Arsenal T2 prototype made in the mid 1920s. While originally armed with MGs that youd see with the M2A2, the Spanish Civil War showed that MG only tanks werent viable anymore and most were either shoved in storage or refitted with 37mm cannons. While it had been replaced by the M3 and later M3A1 Stuart, the M2A4 would see use in the Pacific both by the 1st Marine Tank Battalion at Guadalcanal as well as limited issue to British units in Burma and India, although historians doubt they were ever used in mainline combat.
If you want to be a little turd, you take this tank. And dont take that as an insult, the M2A4 and most of the American light tanks can wreck shop in 1.0 to around 2.0 when 75mm start rolling out. The armor isnt anything special but the speed of the M2A4 make it pretty quick and the 37mm gun is more than capable of taking out enemy tanks. If you want to be a speedy speed boy, go with this tank.
Then theres its older brother, the M2A2. The M2A2 is one of the last M2 tanks to run the original style of machine gun turrets, albeit two in comparison to the single turret of the earlier M1 Combat Car. While well liked by troops in the field that earned it the name Mae West, the M2A2 pattern would be replaced quickly after the Spanish Civil War in favor of the M2A4 pattern. A few would bleed through into training, and some were picked up from storage for use in assaulting the Aleutian islands in Alaska but those tended to be left there.
And theres pretty good reason why, what this tank has in speed it lacks in everything else. The main .50 BMG M2 Browning machine gun isnt really a spectacular anti-tank weapon unless you gun it for specific other Reserve tanks and its only on one half of the turret with the other being a standard M1919 .30 cal. Its more of a tank you end up taking because you dont have any others, I advise you get another flavor of Stuart before this because trying to kill enemy tanks with this is as fun as trying to drive a nail into your ceiling. The German tree starts with 3 reserve tanks each of different models. The Panzer III Ausf B, the Panzer II C and the Panzer 35(t). Out of all of the reserve trees, its the most balanced with two decent money makers and one that can be powerful if you learn how to use it right.
The Panzer III Ausf B is the first version of the III variation made, designed in 1935 based off of requests by German general Heinz Guderian. The idea that German doctrine had at the time was that the tanks would be split around basic ideas. There would be a proper tank for fighting other tanks with a high velocity cannon, a support tank with a larger gun for dealing with AT guns and bunkers alongside a mix of infantry support guns and light tanks. These would divide themselves into the Panzer III, Panzer IV, Panzer II and the original StuG. The III B specifically was made in 1937 and would stay in service until 1940 when it was replaced by later models of the Panzer III and scrapped entirely.
This serves as the introduction to the gameplay of the German Panzer series. poke out of cover, shoot, back up and dont ever point yourself blindly forward unless you want someone to slap a round through the drivers port. The 37mm gun is adequate for Tier 1 and a few Tier 2 tanks, the armor leaves a lot to be desired but later patterns of the III will easily get uparmoed so dont lose any sleep over that problem.
The Panzer II series was developed primarily as an emergency tank due to the designs for the later Panzer III and IV falling behind schedule. The German military put out a request for any type of tank to all major manufacturers who simply took the earlier Panzer I, added another bogie wheel and larger turret housing a 20mm autocannon and birthed the Panzer II. While in low production initially, the Panzer II would become far more numerous and be the standard issue tank to the German Army from the Invasion of Poland until well into Operation Barbarossa when they started to be replaced and by 1942 most were already being converted into Wespes and Marder IIs.
In-game the Panzer II is a decent enough light tank with nothing spectacular going for it. Decent frontal armor and a fast firing cannon are then immediately tempered by the slow reload of the cannon and tiny 3 man crew. If you can get it to the PzGr 40 rounds, you have a decent tank for shredding other light tanks but besides that, its nothing to write home about.
The Panzer 35(t) was a Czechoslovakian designed tank made from 1936 until 1940 when production was halted in favor of the updated Panzer 38(t). Developed by Czech cavalry request for a replacement for the Lt Vz. 34 tank, the Skoda made 35 competed with the CKD design in 1935 and won the trials, although many had to be repaired due to the rushed development. A decent medium tank, most of the 434 that were made were taken by the German Wehrmacht and used alongside Panzer IIs until 1941 and then retired alongside its later cousin, the 38(t).
As far as starter tanks go, the 35(t) is a deceptively average vehicle that brings nothing but decent to the party. Decent armor, a decent 37mm cannon, decent maneuverability and access to the later Czech designs deeper in the tree. Its nothing super special but theyre effective slot fillers and good enough light tanks for early tiers. The starter Soviet tanks are split evenly between the BT-5 and T-26, so Ill throw the T-60 in as a freebie to keep the consistency up. As far as starting the game goes, the Soviets are some of the best to go with as the 45mm cannon is one of the most effective cannons early in the game. But dont let that get to your head.
The BT-5 is a light tank developed in the early 1930s with most of the work based off of American designer Walter Christie and his wheeled suspension system that allowed for tanks to both run without tracks as well as going with much higher top speeds. While many nations showed interest, the Soviets would be one of the only to actually go forward with the design in its original form. The Soviets bought the M1928 Christie tank and technical package, and over the next 5 years would refine it into the BT-5. While it had good marks in Khalkin Gol, the thin armor made it weak to anti-tank fire and by 1941, most were being lost to mechanical failure and German guns. By 1942, only 65 BT tanks were in service and it was entirely retired in 1946. Rather fittingly, an off shoot that was skipped over in favor of the BT-7 would later become the A-32, or the T-34.
In-game the BT-5s a tank for speed attacks and not much else. The cannon, traverse and speed make it a shoe in for hit and run style tactics on heavier tanks but the small armor means that even small shots can go straight through your tank and liquifying your crew before you can even say what. Keep moving, keep firing and dont even consider stopping and you should be able to wreck shop on enemy flanks.
The T-26 is one of the first Soviet produced tanks, based off of the iconic Vickers 6-ton platform that sold like hotcakes around the world in the mid to late 1920s. In the early 30s, a Soviet buying commission ended up acquiring 30 different Vickers models to pick and choose what would equip the Red Army. The 6-ton would go head to head with domestic designs, most note worthy being the T-19. During the trial, the T-19 recommended they mix elements of both the T-19 and 6-ton together and thus the T-26 was born and put into heavy mass production. While effective in the Spanish Civil War, later conflicts would reveal the age of the design especially the Winter War where they were susceptible to Finnish anti-tank gun and rifle fire. While replaced, the T-26s sheer production numbers meant that it would show up periodically in rear reserve lines well into 1945.
This historical weak armor is this things downfall in game, its honestly worse than the BT in that regard so you should treat it more like a tank destroyer than an actual tank. Keep it in the rear lines and use the 45mm gun to crack open enemy tanks rather than duking it out in the center of the map like your standard early Arcade match.
The T-60 is a Soviet light tank that was developed mostly as a scouting tank by Nikolai Astrov and his team at Moscow Factory No. 34 based on requirements for a amphibious and non-amphibious design. Originally born as the T-30, the designs would go into the T-30A and T-60 models, with the T-60 entering production right in 1941. Yes really. While initially armed with MGs, the tank would be upgraded with a 20mm autocannon that borrowed from similar aircraft cannons. While this did increase its firepower, it was still hopelessly outgunned against any modern German tank and would be replaced by the T-70 within a few years. It would then become the test bed for many other designs including the T-90 AA tank and the infamous A-40 airborne tank.
And this extends to the tank in-game, its a pitiful tank that you only get so you can shove past it to the better T-70 and T-80. The 20mm has some pretty bad penetration, a horrible reload speed and a rate of fire so fast that you cant even spread the rounds around like you can with the Panzer II. The armor is pitiful, the crew size is small and will get liquified if anything larger than a fart hits your tank, all in all its a terrible tank that Im including more as a warning than anything else. Like the Soviets, the Brit tree starts with two tanks so I threw in another 1.0 one because consistency. All in all, the Brits are a tree that requires a little bit of mastery to get right, mostly due to the 2 pounders lack of any real exploding shells. But thats not an entire bad thing because the 2 pounder is a very effective cannon if you can get it running right.
The A13 series of cruiser tanks were developed in the late 1930s as light, fast tanks made to exploit breakthroughs was kickstarted when General Giffard LeQuesne Martel became the Assistant Director of Mechanization at the British War Office. Martel had seen a trial of Soviet tanks, and the big takeaway was the effectiveness of the BT series and thus he had the British push for a similar concept including Christie type suspension and high speed. The first A13 was delivered in 1937 and by 1940 enough were in service to arm the BEF for the Invasion of France. Their rushed development did keep back their usability as crews didnt know how to use them but they did see decent success in areas like Greece and North Africa until they were replaced in 1941 by the Crusader series.
In-game, the BT-5 is the best direct comparison to how the A13 plays and feels. Its a good maneuverable tank that only suffers when you hit the brakes and fire. The 2 pounder has a quick fire rate, some stabilization and good penetration up close to make it powerful for blasting parts inside tanks to make up for the lack of any explosive payload. Just make sure to keep moving.
The Tetrarch is a bit of an infamous tank, albeit for the wrong reasons. Its a pre-war light tank design now famous for being made into a paratrooper tank by the end of the war. Originally developed as the Light Tank Mk VII by Vickers Armstrong in 1937, the Tetrarch wouldnt be adopted due to the A13 filling the role of light cruiser tank far better. In 1941 it would be adopted as a simple light tank, with around 220 requested. Production was held back by the Blitz as well as overall inertia due to the desire for such tanks being fairly low. While originally a mainline tank, by 1943 most Tetrarchs were handed over to airborne troops who used them on drops until November of 1944 when it was replaced by the M22 Locust. Tetrarchs floated in Army inventory until 1950 when they were finally rendered obsolete.
Like the A13, the Tetrarch is made to be fast and light and thankfully youre not duking it out with Panzer IVs and Vs like the real world tank. Its a slightly smaller and slower A13, lacking the same speed but still packing similar armor and armament. You can use it a bit more loosely given the shorter length but do remember that your armor is made out of tea bags so dont get too cocky.
Following the Tetrarch is the Daimler Armored Car, specifically the Mk. II fitted with a 2 pounder gun. Designed as a larger version of the Daimler Dingo scout car, the Armored Car was fitted with the Tetrarch turret and a larger engine. While production started in 1939, the vehicle wouldnt enter production until 1941 due to issues with the transmission. After that however, the DAC would have a long life span from WWII until well into the 1950s in the Commonwealth as an internal security vehicle.
Take the Tetrarchs overall small size and then make it faster and easier to move. While its not good past 2.0, the DAC is a good replacement and slot filler for the early game as it operates similar to a light tank with better overall acceleration and so on. At first, I use to say the Japanese were one of the worst nations to start out as. Which was true until they added the French and their 15 flavors of terribly slow 2 man cavalry tanks that I will talk about later. In-general, the Japanese are fairly average as far as Tier 1 go, with the major issue being that you must watch which tanks you add to your line since getting one 1.7 tier tank will bump you into the same range as tanks like the T-28 and M22s.
The Type 98 Ke-Ni is a small Japanese light tank built by Hino Motors as a replacement for the earlier Type 95 Ha-Go that while it did well in testing, wasnt really pushed forward due to how acceptable the Ha-Go was doing against the tanks of the Republic of China. When 1941 rolled around and the Imperial Japanese military found the Type 95s armor could be penetrated by .50 BMG fire, Hino was given a contract for tanks. Only 104 were made, mostly due to a majority of domestic steel being used for warships and aircraft construction over tanks.
Sharing the chassis with the Ta-Se AA vehicle, the Ke-Ni is a peppy little tank with a decent cannon and absolutely no armor which is the running theme with most of the early Japanese tanks. The armor is definitely paper thin, HMGs and even coaxials can pen if you arent careful but the cannon putting out around 40mm of penetration makes it pretty good at peek and scoot tactics.
The Type 95 Ha-Go is one of the early tank options, and one I advise you pickup so you have a full set of 3 for screwing around with on AB. Developed from the earlier Type 89 I-Go-Ko, the Type 95 was made primarily for mobility to deal with the main complaints of the earlier Type 89 as well as the Type 92 Cavalry Tank. Balancing decent armor, armament and speed, the Type 95 would enter production in 1936 and would be made until 1943 with around 2,300 made making it one of the most common Japanese tanks of WWII.
The Ha-Gos only advantage is its small size and speed, everything else pales in comparison to almost every other tank. The cannons a bit below average but it has good depression, a high speed and the small size allows you to be extra sneaky in big maps. But the low armor, small crew and terrible reverse speed make this a bit of a risky tank to go with.
The Type 89 I-Go-Ko was one of the first properly Japanese tanks developed and produced by the Empire of Japan, made primarily to replace the mix of Renault FTs and British Mark IVs and Medium A Whippets that were in service. In 1926, the military requested some domestic design be made, and the 4th Military Laboratory would begin work on a new design. After a few years, the I-Go-Ko came out in 1929. First used in the Manchurian Incident, the tank did well in comparison to the earlier Renault and thus it would become the standard medium tank for Japan until 1939 when designs like the Chi-Ha would replace it. Even then, the I-Go-Ko still showed up both as a tank and armored pillbox, although American equipment made quick work of them. Hilariously, a few were kept around by the French during the Indochina War, with the Commando Blind du Cambodge unit using a hodge podge of other designs taken from the former Japanese occupants.
The I-Go-Ko feels like a tank from 1929 when you use it and theres no way to curb that outside of the HEAT shell that it shares with the first version of the Chi-Ha. The armor is pretty thin, and while the tank isnt sluggish despite its size, its still an easy target if you arent careful. Even with the HEAT round, the I-Go-Ko is still more of a light tank than a heavy. Yes, the Italians. While history remembers the Italian armor as terrible with a mix of tiny tankettes and ancient mediums, the game will save face in not having you try to fight Stuarts in tankettes. The starting Italian tanks are quite good, and like how Italian planes are an easy way to get to jets, Italian tanks are an easy way to get to MBTs if you really want to grind. The Italian tree starts with 2 tanks, although theyre the same basic design so Im going to break the formula a BIT for the M13/40.
The Italian M13/40 tank was designed by Fiat as an in-general replacement for the Fiat L3 tankette, L6/40 and M11/39 that were in service at the start of WWII. Taking design cues from the Vickers 6-ton tank as well as the M11/39s chassis, the M13 used a single turret mounting a cannon and machine gun over the M11/39s turret mounted MG and pintle mounted cannon. While the M13 did enter production in January of 1940, the tank would be used primarily in the North African front over the Eastern Front and faired poorly due to Italian tank crews not being properly trained with the tank, the arrival of Shermans and many other logistical issues. A few would end up in Egyptian arsenals post war and used in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War.
The M13s a potent medium tank for the early game, with a decent cannon, armor and overall mobility that make it decent for normal game and powerful in the right hands. The default ammo is potent at close range, it has good depression and can ping shots if angled correctly. It is a bit slow and you will be a tad boned if youre fighting another M13, but keep at it and watch for SPGs.
The AB41 is an Italian armored car thats an easy unlock early game if you go pubstomping with the M13 like a madman. Developed for a military request for a lightweight armored car for military police and recon, Fiat and Ansaldo would unveil the prototype AB in 1939. After trials, the design would be adopted in 1940 and enter as the AB40. The AB40 was upgunned to a 20mm cannon in 1941 and dubbed the AB41 and a version with a 47mm gun was planned as the AB43 but Italian Armistice prevented that from happening.
In-game, the AB41 is similar to the DAC or other armored cars of the same rank. Its a light tank with little armor, good speed and mobility and only lacking in the arms department. The 20mm cannon does have decent ammo but the magazine size is small and takes a little work to get running right. Place your shots right and youll eat through light tanks like nothing else. Initially, I was going to say that the Japanese are one of the worst trees to start, and that was until I started playing the French. At first, you might think the French are full of light tanks so theyre fast and fun to use.
Until you use them. You will now feel the absolute fun that was French tank doctrine with the H.35, H.39 and the AMC.34. Two man crews, no horsepower and god forbid you even think about going near a hill and actually penetrating armor.
The AMC.34 is weird historically, its a French light tank that didnt really see service at all. Not even to the M2A2s extent. Its confusing. In 1931, France began to heavily invest in tank production as they watched the Soviets rapidly build a tank program. This scramble would see the French Cavalry deciding on tank designs. The idea was to have fast, heavy hitting light tanks or Automitrailleuse de Combat in service alongside normal infantry designs. Louis Renault would put his team to work on a new AMC style tank and by 1934, the AMC 34 was ready to go. It did, and then by 1939 most had been replaced by other tanks and scrapped.
The AMC. 34 is a terrifically terrible tank to use, and it will make you hate the French tree. The armor is a 50/50 between decent turret armor and absolutely terrible body plating, the engine barely gets it moving and the ammo does a whopping 27mm of penetration at 10m. There are machine guns that can do better.
The H.35 is another French light tank of the pre-war era, designed to be a cheap and simple infantry tank to support troops and maybe fight tanks if it really felt like it. The Hotchkiss company had submitted a design for a lightweight tank made primarily of cast steel for the body, the idea was well liked and the French military approved the proposal but Hotchkiss was beaten to the punch by Renault for the design while Hotchkiss didnt even have a prototype ready in proper armor steel. And when it arrived, it was rejected for being terrible off road. But French politics kept the thing in production and H.35s were given to the Cavalry or else they wouldnt get funding to get their own designs.
Yes really. They blackmailed them to take the tank. Thats a good sign isnt it.
In-game, this is the tank that will make you want to give up on life because its astoundingly terrible in every way except armor. The cannon is the same one off of the WWI era FT and has mediocre penetration, the engine is stupid underpowered and will not propel this tank forward even with upgrades so give up on climbing a hill, and the small crew means one good shot to the center of the tank will liquify your crew into a fine pate. Give up now.
If you havent given up on life yet, then the H.39 will save your soul. At least its trying to. The H.39 was developed by the Cavalry to make the H.35 suck less, at first by giving it a 120 hp engine over the paltry 78 of the original H.35 and subsequently more upgrades as time went on. The hull was enlarged, the track and suspension was improved to actually make the tank drivable, better ventilators, a radio and an improved cannon. Around 350-400 H.35s were upgraded to the H.39 pattern before the German invasion, and plans for an upgrade from there was dropped so they could finally forget about the H.35.
The H.39 is the one saving grace of the French reserve tanks, its actually good. It can go decently fast, the armor can tank shots decently well and the gun isnt terrible, if you have to keep any of the reserve tanks then this is the one to keep. And the only one. Dont suffer for the art. Thats the basic tanks done, which suck and which are gold. But before you go out to murder everything that moves, allow me to give you some words of wisdom in this game.
1: Dont fight everything that moves, sometimes doing the objectives will get you more points than chasing down every T-26 that you see.
2: Always check the rank of the tanks you unlock. This sounds pretty basic, and it is, and yet every so often I will see someone who marathond a tree so hard that their lineup goes 2.7, 2.0, 1.3 and then they act surprised when they get killed driving a pre-WWII tank in the middle of a 1943 firefight. I know, you might want every flavor of T-34 ever made in your line up for maximum Soviet but dont act surprised when you get uptierd into a 4.0 match because one of those is 3.7.
3: Balance everything. This ties into the bit above as well, but it still is something that needs to be said. Get good tanks that balance each other out, think like the French tree, balance out the H.35 and AMC with something actually good.
4: Gamble a little bit, sometimes playing it safe doesnt do anything. Dont go crazy but sometimes flinging a tiny tank into a match might help win it. Related Posts: Yak-38 Pack Italy V Rank Class 5.80 t Take-off weight Flight characteristics Bristol Orpheus MK.803 Engine air Cooling system 1128 km/h Structural Offensive armament 1200 rounds Ammunition Suspended armament 38 x FFAR Mighty Mouse rockets Setup 2 170000 Research 12080 / 16320 / 7200 / 9727 / 3410 / 4606 Repair 550000 Experts 208 Reward for battle This page is about the Italian jet fighter G.91 R/1 . For other versions, see G.91 (Family).
2 General info
2.1 Flight performance
3 Armaments
4 Usage in battles Description
The G.91 R/1 (nicknamed 'Gina' ) is a rank V Italian jet fighter with a battle rating of 8.3 (AB) and 8.7 (RB/SB). It was introduced in Update 1.69 'Regia Aeronautica' along with the initial Italian aviation tree.
A mid 50's transonic fighter ( Mach 0.98) with ground attack abilities. Very manoeuvrable, but with a light offensive armament makes the G.91 with its young age a difficult starter aircraft into the jet era. Especially as it will fly in fierce competition in the sky, facing every sub- and transonic aircraft and being smack in the middle performance-wise.
There are little changes between the Pre-serie, R/1, R/3 and the R/4 and this guide can be considered universal for all listed aircraft. General info Flight performance
The G.91 was intended to replace the F-86A Sabre in German, Portuguese and Italian service and it shows. With an empty weight of only 3,100 kg (6,800 lbs) and a takeoff weight of 5,500 kg (12,100 lbs), the Gina is in the same weight class as the P-51D and MiG-9, yet severely lighter than most other jets and losing about one and a half tonnes compared to the Sabre A.Although only outputting a meagre 22 kN of thrust this first look disadvantage is literally outweighed by the high thrust to weight ratio of 0.73 empty (0.41 full). This makes the Gina an excellent dogfighter as jet fighters maintain both their top speed, climb and sustained turn-rate by their engine power rather than other flight characteristics. It can easily reach its own terminal speed (1,011 km/h, 921 f/s) and self-destruct in level flight.
Lacking in straight wings and leading wing slats the stall speed for the G.91 is quite higher than the low weight lets one assume. One should hence be wary of many older jet types with said features, as after bleeding too much speed they can easily outmanoeuvre the Gina.
Starting with 20 min of fuel, gaining the climb speed of 800 km/h IAS (sustainable @ 7-8; 730 f/s) takes a mere 80 seconds with 20 predicated for taking off at 230 km/h or 210 f/s IAS. An Immelmann at 800 km/h will gain 1000 m and loose 300 km/h. A hard 180 turn at the same speed takes 100 km/h and may lose up to 60 m. Characteristics Max Speed
(km/h at 0 m - sea level) Max altitude
(metres) Turn time
(seconds) Rate of climb
(metres/second) Take-off run
(metres) AB RB AB RB AB RB Stock 1,066 1,042 11000 27.3 27.8 29.8 28.8 850 Upgraded 1,096 1,084 25.1 26.0 49.6 39.0 Details Features Combat flaps Take-off flaps Landing flaps Air brakes Arrestor gear Drogue chute X Limits Wings (km/h) Gear (km/h) Flaps (km/h) Max Static G Combat Take-off Landing + - 1128 345 620 620 345 10 4 Optimal velocities (km/h) Ailerons Rudder Elevators Radiator 800 650 660 N/A Engine performance Engine Aircraft mass Engine name Number Empty mass Wing loading (full fuel) Bristol Orpheus MK.803 1 3,477 kg 281 kg/m 2 Engine characteristics Mass with fuel (no weapons load) Max Takeoff
Weight Weight (each) Type 9m fuel 20m fuel 30m fuel 32m fuel 380 kg Axial-flow turbojet 3,697 kg 4,129 kg 4,522 kg 4,600 kg 5,800 kg Maximum engine thrust @ 0 m (RB / SB) Thrust to weight ratio @ 0 m (101) Condition 100 101 9m fuel 20m fuel 30m fuel 32m fuel MTOW Stationary 2,212 kgf 2,234 kgf 0.60 0.54 0.49 0.49 0.39 Optimal 2,212 kgf
(0 km/h) 2,234 kgf
(0 km/h) 0.60 0.54 0.49 0.49 0.39 Survivability and armour
At its rank there is little which cannot hurt the G.91. This is mostly due to the large calibres and fast-firing weapons found in the jet age, although the Gina does not help this issue. The armour is enough to withstand the occasional tank LMG fire but otherwise will only protect the pilot from shrapnel damage. Even though the centerline arrangement of all components proves to be quite survivable in combat, it does NOT lend itself for head-ons or prolonged chases. The former only leads to functional aircraft with a dead pilot and the latter to the reverse, which was in all likelihood the intended design in real life.
6.5 mm Steel - Behind, below and in front of the pilot
6.5 mm Steel - under central fuel tanks.
40 mm bulletproof glass - Armoured windshield
Critical components located down the midline of aircraft (fuel, pilot, engine, controls)
Fuel tanks located in the central fuselage. Armaments Offensive armament Main article : M3 Browning (12.7 mm)
The G.91 R/1 is armed with:
4 x 12.7 mm M3 Browning machine guns, nose-mounted (300 rpg = 1,200 total)
The M3 Browning is a new weapon in the Italian arsenal at this 5th tier and compared to the previous experiences a letdown. The rate of fire is phenomenal, but the small calibre and ammo size put a serious damper to the mood, that is in comparison of course. In practice and with good aim, it can easily shred four fighters. The high bullet velocity and fire rate is quite the advantage in the fast-paced world of jet combat, ensuring hits in deflection shots where the lower rate of fire found in the Soviet jet fighters might have failed the pilot.
Yet one will always look onto greener pastures, especially as the Gina only has four guns unlike all other Browning armed jets. No matter how you turn it, the armament is only manageable with skill and for a beginner outright bad. Suspended armament Main articles : AN-M64A1 (500 lb) , FFAR Mighty Mouse
The G.91 R/1 can be outfitted with the following ordnance:
Without load
2 x 500 lb AN-M64A1 bombs (1,000 lb total)
38 x FFAR Mighty Mouse rockets
The G.91 is a fighter and it shows in the additional payloads. They should only be considered for a quick drop on the way to the combat zone, losing height/speed advantage in doing so, or once aerial dominance has already accomplished. Even then many other jets are way better suited for ground attacks.
The bombs are standard fare and often not worse the hassle with their low total yield. The FFAR rockets are a far better option allowing to tackle more than one target, even though they only work well against soft target and up to medium tanks. Usage in battles
Air superiority is the combat objective for the G.91 Gina , anything else is secondary. In team games lure enemy fighters into extensive and excessive dogfights to allow your heavier and less nimble allies to Boom and Zoom or Boom and Run them. With their great thrust to weight ratio, the G.91 can maintain their energy superiority and in emergencies (such as non-existant teamplay) to disengage. Alternatively, standard Boom Zoom is a considerable choice. Again the great acceleration allows for more energy-expensive manoeuvres and still disengage without much worry from the target. Such follies would be deadly in many other fighters, but the Gina is hence quite forgiving. In fact too forgiving, new pilots to the jet age need to lose old habits and the G.91 does not force one's hand.
Against bombers and ground attack craft the G.91 lacks necessary firepower and it will take considerable ammo use to compensate for this. The measly protection against defensive fire makes this a dangerous task anyway and should thusly be left for better-equipped allies.
The very same can be said for ground attacks. While being able to mount air-to-ground ordnance, the payload yield is minuscule. The FFAR pods are the only worthwhile consideration but run against the G.91's intended role of Air Superiority Fighter. Modules Tier Flight performance Survivability Weaponry I Fuselage repair Compressor Offensive 12 mm II New boosters Airframe SBC-17 III Wings repair Engine New 12 mm MGs IV G-suit Cover FFAR Mighty Mouse
A focus should be done on the engine modules, as the G.91 lives by its T/W ratio. New boosters is a double-edged sword, as without the G-Suit one is just blackout earlier. This oddly makes the Bomb unlock a tantalizing choice, especially in already won matches for farming on ground units before the game ends. Airframe and cover do little, the weight savings are very minor and without them, the G.91 can still easily reach top speeds and rip off its wings.. Pros and cons
Pros:
Low weight, high thrust-to-weight ratio
Great turn time for a jet; can give the MiG-15 a run for its money
Great acceleration and climb rate
4 x M3 machine guns can be deadly if aimed correctly and used in close range
Cons:
It has a slower speed relative to the jets it will encounter
Short burst time due to low ammo count
Limited ground attack abilities
Bleeds off a lot of speed in a full elevator turn
Can rip its wings off if you pull full elevator past 800 km/h History
The first production version of the G.91 was the G.91 R, which was intended for both close support and photo-reconnaissance. The first production aircraft was finished in 1959, and the R/1 entered Italian Air Force service with 14th Gruppe in March 1961. In total 48 of this model would be built, all serving with Italy, while the West Germans used the more powerfully armed R/3 and R/4 variants. These would be followed by another 50 R/1B combat aircraft.
Winner of the 1953 NATO light tactical support aircraft competition, the Fiat 'Small Sabre' would be in production for 19 years, with 756 aircraft completed, with the last aircraft produced in 1977. It served in the Italian and West German air forces starting in 1961 and 1962 respectively.
The original competition specifications called for a jet able to carry 450 kg of ordnance with an operational radius of 180 km, assuming 10 minutes over the target, with a maximum speed of at least Mach 0.95 and a takeoff distance of no more than 1100m, on unprepared or grass runways. Eight aircraft competed in the first round, including the French Dassault Etendard (then called the Mystere XXVI) and the British Folland Gnat. The Etendard, the G.91 and a Breguet design were selected for the second round beginning in late 1957. Fiat went ahead with pre-production ('pre-serie' in Italian) aircraft, with first flight in August 1956, seven months ahead of its competitors. The crash of the first prototype due to aeroelastic vibrations in February 1957, proved a setback, but the G.91 entered the second round as scheduled and was announced as the winner in January 1958.
Critics said Fiat had just copied the F-86 Sabre, which it was manufactured under license, but these claims seem unwarranted. Operational service evaluations with the Italian air force's 103 Squadron ran from February to July 1959, leading to a West German decision to manufacture the aircraft under license. Media Skins Videos The Shooting Range 46 - Pages of History section at 05:29 discusses the G.91. 'How to fly the Fiat G.91R/1' - McChickenBites See also
F-86A-5 Sabre - combat role predecessor
La-15 and Yak-30 - similar flight style War Thunder - German Starter Pack Cracked External links
Fiat Aviation ( Fiat Aviazione ) Attacker F.C.20 Bis Fighters CR.32 CR.32 bis CR.32 quater CR.42 Marcolin's C.R.42 CN G.50 serie 2 G.50 AS serie 7 G.55 sottoserie 0 G.55 serie 1 G.55S G.56 Jet fighters G.91 pre-serie G.91 R/1 G.91 YS F-86K* F-104S* Bombers B.R.20DR B.R.20M M1 Export J11 G.91 R/3 G.91 R/4 G.91 R/4 Captured CR.42 Marcolin's C.R.42 CN G.50 serie 2 G.50 AS serie 7 *Licensed See also North American Aviation Lockheed Martin War Thunder - German Starter Pack Crackers
Italy jet aircraft Fiat G.91 pre-serie G.91 R/1 G.91 R/4 G.91 YS Foreign F-84G-21-RE CL-13 Mk.4 F-86K F-104S Vampire FB 52A
Retrieved from 'https://wiki.warthunder.com/index.php?title=G.91_R/1oldid=78409'
War Thunder - German Starter Pack Crackers
A guide of the reserve tanks for all of the trees in War Thunder, how they work and how to become lord king of murder mountain with them. Joyce lifts manual 2017 . This guide is a basic lineup of all the reserve tanks as well as a few oddballs that youre going to unlock within the first few matches. Which are good, bad and astoundingly terrible. With that said, I shall do this in order of the line up in game, so US, Germany, Soviets, Brits, Japan, Italy and finally France. America starts off with two reserve tanks alongside one that youre going to be gunning for first because American Tank Destroyers can be incredibly powerful against Soviet tanks at 3.0.
Seriously, do not doubt the power of the M3 75mm or the M10.
War Thunder - Japanese Pacific Campaign (1941-1943) Level.
The A-7D is the USAF version of the A-7 Corsair II naval strike aircraft, developed in the mid 1960s by Ling-Temco-Vought as a replacement for the Douglas A-4 Skyhawk. Soon, pilots will have the chance to take control of the successor to the popular Skyhawk as it arrives in War Thunder with the release of the next major update!
War Thunder: German Starter Pack Only At $5.99. View Deal Expire: 13-12-20. War Thunder: 2500 Golden Eagles Only For $16.50.
War Thunder - German Starter Pack is provided via activation key. For key redemption, a free War Thunder account is required as well as free game client from official website.This Pack includes: SdKfz 140/1 tank (Rank 1 Germany); He 112 B-1/U2 fighter (Rank 1 Germany); 120000 Silver Lions; Premium Account for 7 days. SdKfz 140/1 The invasion of the USSR demonstrated that German APCs werent.
To start off however, we have the one off tank to start you down American light tanks, the LVT(A)(1).
The LVT series of vehicles were landing craft used heavily by the US Marine Corps during the island hopping campaigns in the Pacific. The idea was to have treads for climbing onto beach heads as well as propellers to sail out from landing ships, and these LVTs would be famously nicknamed Amtraks as a result. For fire support, the (A)(1) was developed mounting a M3A1 Stuart turret which was quickly found to lack suitable punch to deal with enemy fortifications which would lead to later variants mounting the turret found on the M8 GMC.
In-game, the LVTs a fairly potent tank but not really for front line duels. The thin Amtrak armor makes it a target for anyone with a bone to pick and your only advantage is the sheer amount of men that you can pull in once some BT-5 takes out your turret. The 37mm cannon is one of the best starting guns in the game and if you know where to hit, will easily one shot any target you come across. While good, your main RP maker will come with the next tank.
The M2A4 is the final variant of the M2 series of tanks that descend all the way from the original Rock Island Arsenal T2 prototype made in the mid 1920s. While originally armed with MGs that youd see with the M2A2, the Spanish Civil War showed that MG only tanks werent viable anymore and most were either shoved in storage or refitted with 37mm cannons. While it had been replaced by the M3 and later M3A1 Stuart, the M2A4 would see use in the Pacific both by the 1st Marine Tank Battalion at Guadalcanal as well as limited issue to British units in Burma and India, although historians doubt they were ever used in mainline combat.
If you want to be a little turd, you take this tank. And dont take that as an insult, the M2A4 and most of the American light tanks can wreck shop in 1.0 to around 2.0 when 75mm start rolling out. The armor isnt anything special but the speed of the M2A4 make it pretty quick and the 37mm gun is more than capable of taking out enemy tanks. If you want to be a speedy speed boy, go with this tank.
Then theres its older brother, the M2A2. The M2A2 is one of the last M2 tanks to run the original style of machine gun turrets, albeit two in comparison to the single turret of the earlier M1 Combat Car. While well liked by troops in the field that earned it the name Mae West, the M2A2 pattern would be replaced quickly after the Spanish Civil War in favor of the M2A4 pattern. A few would bleed through into training, and some were picked up from storage for use in assaulting the Aleutian islands in Alaska but those tended to be left there.
And theres pretty good reason why, what this tank has in speed it lacks in everything else. The main .50 BMG M2 Browning machine gun isnt really a spectacular anti-tank weapon unless you gun it for specific other Reserve tanks and its only on one half of the turret with the other being a standard M1919 .30 cal. Its more of a tank you end up taking because you dont have any others, I advise you get another flavor of Stuart before this because trying to kill enemy tanks with this is as fun as trying to drive a nail into your ceiling. The German tree starts with 3 reserve tanks each of different models. The Panzer III Ausf B, the Panzer II C and the Panzer 35(t). Out of all of the reserve trees, its the most balanced with two decent money makers and one that can be powerful if you learn how to use it right.
The Panzer III Ausf B is the first version of the III variation made, designed in 1935 based off of requests by German general Heinz Guderian. The idea that German doctrine had at the time was that the tanks would be split around basic ideas. There would be a proper tank for fighting other tanks with a high velocity cannon, a support tank with a larger gun for dealing with AT guns and bunkers alongside a mix of infantry support guns and light tanks. These would divide themselves into the Panzer III, Panzer IV, Panzer II and the original StuG. The III B specifically was made in 1937 and would stay in service until 1940 when it was replaced by later models of the Panzer III and scrapped entirely.
This serves as the introduction to the gameplay of the German Panzer series. poke out of cover, shoot, back up and dont ever point yourself blindly forward unless you want someone to slap a round through the drivers port. The 37mm gun is adequate for Tier 1 and a few Tier 2 tanks, the armor leaves a lot to be desired but later patterns of the III will easily get uparmoed so dont lose any sleep over that problem.
The Panzer II series was developed primarily as an emergency tank due to the designs for the later Panzer III and IV falling behind schedule. The German military put out a request for any type of tank to all major manufacturers who simply took the earlier Panzer I, added another bogie wheel and larger turret housing a 20mm autocannon and birthed the Panzer II. While in low production initially, the Panzer II would become far more numerous and be the standard issue tank to the German Army from the Invasion of Poland until well into Operation Barbarossa when they started to be replaced and by 1942 most were already being converted into Wespes and Marder IIs.
In-game the Panzer II is a decent enough light tank with nothing spectacular going for it. Decent frontal armor and a fast firing cannon are then immediately tempered by the slow reload of the cannon and tiny 3 man crew. If you can get it to the PzGr 40 rounds, you have a decent tank for shredding other light tanks but besides that, its nothing to write home about.
The Panzer 35(t) was a Czechoslovakian designed tank made from 1936 until 1940 when production was halted in favor of the updated Panzer 38(t). Developed by Czech cavalry request for a replacement for the Lt Vz. 34 tank, the Skoda made 35 competed with the CKD design in 1935 and won the trials, although many had to be repaired due to the rushed development. A decent medium tank, most of the 434 that were made were taken by the German Wehrmacht and used alongside Panzer IIs until 1941 and then retired alongside its later cousin, the 38(t).
As far as starter tanks go, the 35(t) is a deceptively average vehicle that brings nothing but decent to the party. Decent armor, a decent 37mm cannon, decent maneuverability and access to the later Czech designs deeper in the tree. Its nothing super special but theyre effective slot fillers and good enough light tanks for early tiers. The starter Soviet tanks are split evenly between the BT-5 and T-26, so Ill throw the T-60 in as a freebie to keep the consistency up. As far as starting the game goes, the Soviets are some of the best to go with as the 45mm cannon is one of the most effective cannons early in the game. But dont let that get to your head.
The BT-5 is a light tank developed in the early 1930s with most of the work based off of American designer Walter Christie and his wheeled suspension system that allowed for tanks to both run without tracks as well as going with much higher top speeds. While many nations showed interest, the Soviets would be one of the only to actually go forward with the design in its original form. The Soviets bought the M1928 Christie tank and technical package, and over the next 5 years would refine it into the BT-5. While it had good marks in Khalkin Gol, the thin armor made it weak to anti-tank fire and by 1941, most were being lost to mechanical failure and German guns. By 1942, only 65 BT tanks were in service and it was entirely retired in 1946. Rather fittingly, an off shoot that was skipped over in favor of the BT-7 would later become the A-32, or the T-34.
In-game the BT-5s a tank for speed attacks and not much else. The cannon, traverse and speed make it a shoe in for hit and run style tactics on heavier tanks but the small armor means that even small shots can go straight through your tank and liquifying your crew before you can even say what. Keep moving, keep firing and dont even consider stopping and you should be able to wreck shop on enemy flanks.
The T-26 is one of the first Soviet produced tanks, based off of the iconic Vickers 6-ton platform that sold like hotcakes around the world in the mid to late 1920s. In the early 30s, a Soviet buying commission ended up acquiring 30 different Vickers models to pick and choose what would equip the Red Army. The 6-ton would go head to head with domestic designs, most note worthy being the T-19. During the trial, the T-19 recommended they mix elements of both the T-19 and 6-ton together and thus the T-26 was born and put into heavy mass production. While effective in the Spanish Civil War, later conflicts would reveal the age of the design especially the Winter War where they were susceptible to Finnish anti-tank gun and rifle fire. While replaced, the T-26s sheer production numbers meant that it would show up periodically in rear reserve lines well into 1945.
This historical weak armor is this things downfall in game, its honestly worse than the BT in that regard so you should treat it more like a tank destroyer than an actual tank. Keep it in the rear lines and use the 45mm gun to crack open enemy tanks rather than duking it out in the center of the map like your standard early Arcade match.
The T-60 is a Soviet light tank that was developed mostly as a scouting tank by Nikolai Astrov and his team at Moscow Factory No. 34 based on requirements for a amphibious and non-amphibious design. Originally born as the T-30, the designs would go into the T-30A and T-60 models, with the T-60 entering production right in 1941. Yes really. While initially armed with MGs, the tank would be upgraded with a 20mm autocannon that borrowed from similar aircraft cannons. While this did increase its firepower, it was still hopelessly outgunned against any modern German tank and would be replaced by the T-70 within a few years. It would then become the test bed for many other designs including the T-90 AA tank and the infamous A-40 airborne tank.
And this extends to the tank in-game, its a pitiful tank that you only get so you can shove past it to the better T-70 and T-80. The 20mm has some pretty bad penetration, a horrible reload speed and a rate of fire so fast that you cant even spread the rounds around like you can with the Panzer II. The armor is pitiful, the crew size is small and will get liquified if anything larger than a fart hits your tank, all in all its a terrible tank that Im including more as a warning than anything else. Like the Soviets, the Brit tree starts with two tanks so I threw in another 1.0 one because consistency. All in all, the Brits are a tree that requires a little bit of mastery to get right, mostly due to the 2 pounders lack of any real exploding shells. But thats not an entire bad thing because the 2 pounder is a very effective cannon if you can get it running right.
The A13 series of cruiser tanks were developed in the late 1930s as light, fast tanks made to exploit breakthroughs was kickstarted when General Giffard LeQuesne Martel became the Assistant Director of Mechanization at the British War Office. Martel had seen a trial of Soviet tanks, and the big takeaway was the effectiveness of the BT series and thus he had the British push for a similar concept including Christie type suspension and high speed. The first A13 was delivered in 1937 and by 1940 enough were in service to arm the BEF for the Invasion of France. Their rushed development did keep back their usability as crews didnt know how to use them but they did see decent success in areas like Greece and North Africa until they were replaced in 1941 by the Crusader series.
In-game, the BT-5 is the best direct comparison to how the A13 plays and feels. Its a good maneuverable tank that only suffers when you hit the brakes and fire. The 2 pounder has a quick fire rate, some stabilization and good penetration up close to make it powerful for blasting parts inside tanks to make up for the lack of any explosive payload. Just make sure to keep moving.
The Tetrarch is a bit of an infamous tank, albeit for the wrong reasons. Its a pre-war light tank design now famous for being made into a paratrooper tank by the end of the war. Originally developed as the Light Tank Mk VII by Vickers Armstrong in 1937, the Tetrarch wouldnt be adopted due to the A13 filling the role of light cruiser tank far better. In 1941 it would be adopted as a simple light tank, with around 220 requested. Production was held back by the Blitz as well as overall inertia due to the desire for such tanks being fairly low. While originally a mainline tank, by 1943 most Tetrarchs were handed over to airborne troops who used them on drops until November of 1944 when it was replaced by the M22 Locust. Tetrarchs floated in Army inventory until 1950 when they were finally rendered obsolete.
Like the A13, the Tetrarch is made to be fast and light and thankfully youre not duking it out with Panzer IVs and Vs like the real world tank. Its a slightly smaller and slower A13, lacking the same speed but still packing similar armor and armament. You can use it a bit more loosely given the shorter length but do remember that your armor is made out of tea bags so dont get too cocky.
Following the Tetrarch is the Daimler Armored Car, specifically the Mk. II fitted with a 2 pounder gun. Designed as a larger version of the Daimler Dingo scout car, the Armored Car was fitted with the Tetrarch turret and a larger engine. While production started in 1939, the vehicle wouldnt enter production until 1941 due to issues with the transmission. After that however, the DAC would have a long life span from WWII until well into the 1950s in the Commonwealth as an internal security vehicle.
Take the Tetrarchs overall small size and then make it faster and easier to move. While its not good past 2.0, the DAC is a good replacement and slot filler for the early game as it operates similar to a light tank with better overall acceleration and so on. At first, I use to say the Japanese were one of the worst nations to start out as. Which was true until they added the French and their 15 flavors of terribly slow 2 man cavalry tanks that I will talk about later. In-general, the Japanese are fairly average as far as Tier 1 go, with the major issue being that you must watch which tanks you add to your line since getting one 1.7 tier tank will bump you into the same range as tanks like the T-28 and M22s.
The Type 98 Ke-Ni is a small Japanese light tank built by Hino Motors as a replacement for the earlier Type 95 Ha-Go that while it did well in testing, wasnt really pushed forward due to how acceptable the Ha-Go was doing against the tanks of the Republic of China. When 1941 rolled around and the Imperial Japanese military found the Type 95s armor could be penetrated by .50 BMG fire, Hino was given a contract for tanks. Only 104 were made, mostly due to a majority of domestic steel being used for warships and aircraft construction over tanks.
Sharing the chassis with the Ta-Se AA vehicle, the Ke-Ni is a peppy little tank with a decent cannon and absolutely no armor which is the running theme with most of the early Japanese tanks. The armor is definitely paper thin, HMGs and even coaxials can pen if you arent careful but the cannon putting out around 40mm of penetration makes it pretty good at peek and scoot tactics.
The Type 95 Ha-Go is one of the early tank options, and one I advise you pickup so you have a full set of 3 for screwing around with on AB. Developed from the earlier Type 89 I-Go-Ko, the Type 95 was made primarily for mobility to deal with the main complaints of the earlier Type 89 as well as the Type 92 Cavalry Tank. Balancing decent armor, armament and speed, the Type 95 would enter production in 1936 and would be made until 1943 with around 2,300 made making it one of the most common Japanese tanks of WWII.
The Ha-Gos only advantage is its small size and speed, everything else pales in comparison to almost every other tank. The cannons a bit below average but it has good depression, a high speed and the small size allows you to be extra sneaky in big maps. But the low armor, small crew and terrible reverse speed make this a bit of a risky tank to go with.
The Type 89 I-Go-Ko was one of the first properly Japanese tanks developed and produced by the Empire of Japan, made primarily to replace the mix of Renault FTs and British Mark IVs and Medium A Whippets that were in service. In 1926, the military requested some domestic design be made, and the 4th Military Laboratory would begin work on a new design. After a few years, the I-Go-Ko came out in 1929. First used in the Manchurian Incident, the tank did well in comparison to the earlier Renault and thus it would become the standard medium tank for Japan until 1939 when designs like the Chi-Ha would replace it. Even then, the I-Go-Ko still showed up both as a tank and armored pillbox, although American equipment made quick work of them. Hilariously, a few were kept around by the French during the Indochina War, with the Commando Blind du Cambodge unit using a hodge podge of other designs taken from the former Japanese occupants.
The I-Go-Ko feels like a tank from 1929 when you use it and theres no way to curb that outside of the HEAT shell that it shares with the first version of the Chi-Ha. The armor is pretty thin, and while the tank isnt sluggish despite its size, its still an easy target if you arent careful. Even with the HEAT round, the I-Go-Ko is still more of a light tank than a heavy. Yes, the Italians. While history remembers the Italian armor as terrible with a mix of tiny tankettes and ancient mediums, the game will save face in not having you try to fight Stuarts in tankettes. The starting Italian tanks are quite good, and like how Italian planes are an easy way to get to jets, Italian tanks are an easy way to get to MBTs if you really want to grind. The Italian tree starts with 2 tanks, although theyre the same basic design so Im going to break the formula a BIT for the M13/40.
The Italian M13/40 tank was designed by Fiat as an in-general replacement for the Fiat L3 tankette, L6/40 and M11/39 that were in service at the start of WWII. Taking design cues from the Vickers 6-ton tank as well as the M11/39s chassis, the M13 used a single turret mounting a cannon and machine gun over the M11/39s turret mounted MG and pintle mounted cannon. While the M13 did enter production in January of 1940, the tank would be used primarily in the North African front over the Eastern Front and faired poorly due to Italian tank crews not being properly trained with the tank, the arrival of Shermans and many other logistical issues. A few would end up in Egyptian arsenals post war and used in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War.
The M13s a potent medium tank for the early game, with a decent cannon, armor and overall mobility that make it decent for normal game and powerful in the right hands. The default ammo is potent at close range, it has good depression and can ping shots if angled correctly. It is a bit slow and you will be a tad boned if youre fighting another M13, but keep at it and watch for SPGs.
The AB41 is an Italian armored car thats an easy unlock early game if you go pubstomping with the M13 like a madman. Developed for a military request for a lightweight armored car for military police and recon, Fiat and Ansaldo would unveil the prototype AB in 1939. After trials, the design would be adopted in 1940 and enter as the AB40. The AB40 was upgunned to a 20mm cannon in 1941 and dubbed the AB41 and a version with a 47mm gun was planned as the AB43 but Italian Armistice prevented that from happening.
In-game, the AB41 is similar to the DAC or other armored cars of the same rank. Its a light tank with little armor, good speed and mobility and only lacking in the arms department. The 20mm cannon does have decent ammo but the magazine size is small and takes a little work to get running right. Place your shots right and youll eat through light tanks like nothing else. Initially, I was going to say that the Japanese are one of the worst trees to start, and that was until I started playing the French. At first, you might think the French are full of light tanks so theyre fast and fun to use.
Until you use them. You will now feel the absolute fun that was French tank doctrine with the H.35, H.39 and the AMC.34. Two man crews, no horsepower and god forbid you even think about going near a hill and actually penetrating armor.
The AMC.34 is weird historically, its a French light tank that didnt really see service at all. Not even to the M2A2s extent. Its confusing. In 1931, France began to heavily invest in tank production as they watched the Soviets rapidly build a tank program. This scramble would see the French Cavalry deciding on tank designs. The idea was to have fast, heavy hitting light tanks or Automitrailleuse de Combat in service alongside normal infantry designs. Louis Renault would put his team to work on a new AMC style tank and by 1934, the AMC 34 was ready to go. It did, and then by 1939 most had been replaced by other tanks and scrapped.
The AMC. 34 is a terrifically terrible tank to use, and it will make you hate the French tree. The armor is a 50/50 between decent turret armor and absolutely terrible body plating, the engine barely gets it moving and the ammo does a whopping 27mm of penetration at 10m. There are machine guns that can do better.
The H.35 is another French light tank of the pre-war era, designed to be a cheap and simple infantry tank to support troops and maybe fight tanks if it really felt like it. The Hotchkiss company had submitted a design for a lightweight tank made primarily of cast steel for the body, the idea was well liked and the French military approved the proposal but Hotchkiss was beaten to the punch by Renault for the design while Hotchkiss didnt even have a prototype ready in proper armor steel. And when it arrived, it was rejected for being terrible off road. But French politics kept the thing in production and H.35s were given to the Cavalry or else they wouldnt get funding to get their own designs.
Yes really. They blackmailed them to take the tank. Thats a good sign isnt it.
In-game, this is the tank that will make you want to give up on life because its astoundingly terrible in every way except armor. The cannon is the same one off of the WWI era FT and has mediocre penetration, the engine is stupid underpowered and will not propel this tank forward even with upgrades so give up on climbing a hill, and the small crew means one good shot to the center of the tank will liquify your crew into a fine pate. Give up now.
If you havent given up on life yet, then the H.39 will save your soul. At least its trying to. The H.39 was developed by the Cavalry to make the H.35 suck less, at first by giving it a 120 hp engine over the paltry 78 of the original H.35 and subsequently more upgrades as time went on. The hull was enlarged, the track and suspension was improved to actually make the tank drivable, better ventilators, a radio and an improved cannon. Around 350-400 H.35s were upgraded to the H.39 pattern before the German invasion, and plans for an upgrade from there was dropped so they could finally forget about the H.35.
The H.39 is the one saving grace of the French reserve tanks, its actually good. It can go decently fast, the armor can tank shots decently well and the gun isnt terrible, if you have to keep any of the reserve tanks then this is the one to keep. And the only one. Dont suffer for the art. Thats the basic tanks done, which suck and which are gold. But before you go out to murder everything that moves, allow me to give you some words of wisdom in this game.
1: Dont fight everything that moves, sometimes doing the objectives will get you more points than chasing down every T-26 that you see.
2: Always check the rank of the tanks you unlock. This sounds pretty basic, and it is, and yet every so often I will see someone who marathond a tree so hard that their lineup goes 2.7, 2.0, 1.3 and then they act surprised when they get killed driving a pre-WWII tank in the middle of a 1943 firefight. I know, you might want every flavor of T-34 ever made in your line up for maximum Soviet but dont act surprised when you get uptierd into a 4.0 match because one of those is 3.7.
3: Balance everything. This ties into the bit above as well, but it still is something that needs to be said. Get good tanks that balance each other out, think like the French tree, balance out the H.35 and AMC with something actually good.
4: Gamble a little bit, sometimes playing it safe doesnt do anything. Dont go crazy but sometimes flinging a tiny tank into a match might help win it. Related Posts: Yak-38 Pack Italy V Rank Class 5.80 t Take-off weight Flight characteristics Bristol Orpheus MK.803 Engine air Cooling system 1128 km/h Structural Offensive armament 1200 rounds Ammunition Suspended armament 38 x FFAR Mighty Mouse rockets Setup 2 170000 Research 12080 / 16320 / 7200 / 9727 / 3410 / 4606 Repair 550000 Experts 208 Reward for battle This page is about the Italian jet fighter G.91 R/1 . For other versions, see G.91 (Family).
2 General info
2.1 Flight performance
3 Armaments
4 Usage in battles Description
The G.91 R/1 (nicknamed 'Gina' ) is a rank V Italian jet fighter with a battle rating of 8.3 (AB) and 8.7 (RB/SB). It was introduced in Update 1.69 'Regia Aeronautica' along with the initial Italian aviation tree.
A mid 50's transonic fighter ( Mach 0.98) with ground attack abilities. Very manoeuvrable, but with a light offensive armament makes the G.91 with its young age a difficult starter aircraft into the jet era. Especially as it will fly in fierce competition in the sky, facing every sub- and transonic aircraft and being smack in the middle performance-wise.
There are little changes between the Pre-serie, R/1, R/3 and the R/4 and this guide can be considered universal for all listed aircraft. General info Flight performance
The G.91 was intended to replace the F-86A Sabre in German, Portuguese and Italian service and it shows. With an empty weight of only 3,100 kg (6,800 lbs) and a takeoff weight of 5,500 kg (12,100 lbs), the Gina is in the same weight class as the P-51D and MiG-9, yet severely lighter than most other jets and losing about one and a half tonnes compared to the Sabre A.Although only outputting a meagre 22 kN of thrust this first look disadvantage is literally outweighed by the high thrust to weight ratio of 0.73 empty (0.41 full). This makes the Gina an excellent dogfighter as jet fighters maintain both their top speed, climb and sustained turn-rate by their engine power rather than other flight characteristics. It can easily reach its own terminal speed (1,011 km/h, 921 f/s) and self-destruct in level flight.
Lacking in straight wings and leading wing slats the stall speed for the G.91 is quite higher than the low weight lets one assume. One should hence be wary of many older jet types with said features, as after bleeding too much speed they can easily outmanoeuvre the Gina.
Starting with 20 min of fuel, gaining the climb speed of 800 km/h IAS (sustainable @ 7-8; 730 f/s) takes a mere 80 seconds with 20 predicated for taking off at 230 km/h or 210 f/s IAS. An Immelmann at 800 km/h will gain 1000 m and loose 300 km/h. A hard 180 turn at the same speed takes 100 km/h and may lose up to 60 m. Characteristics Max Speed
(km/h at 0 m - sea level) Max altitude
(metres) Turn time
(seconds) Rate of climb
(metres/second) Take-off run
(metres) AB RB AB RB AB RB Stock 1,066 1,042 11000 27.3 27.8 29.8 28.8 850 Upgraded 1,096 1,084 25.1 26.0 49.6 39.0 Details Features Combat flaps Take-off flaps Landing flaps Air brakes Arrestor gear Drogue chute X Limits Wings (km/h) Gear (km/h) Flaps (km/h) Max Static G Combat Take-off Landing + - 1128 345 620 620 345 10 4 Optimal velocities (km/h) Ailerons Rudder Elevators Radiator 800 650 660 N/A Engine performance Engine Aircraft mass Engine name Number Empty mass Wing loading (full fuel) Bristol Orpheus MK.803 1 3,477 kg 281 kg/m 2 Engine characteristics Mass with fuel (no weapons load) Max Takeoff
Weight Weight (each) Type 9m fuel 20m fuel 30m fuel 32m fuel 380 kg Axial-flow turbojet 3,697 kg 4,129 kg 4,522 kg 4,600 kg 5,800 kg Maximum engine thrust @ 0 m (RB / SB) Thrust to weight ratio @ 0 m (101) Condition 100 101 9m fuel 20m fuel 30m fuel 32m fuel MTOW Stationary 2,212 kgf 2,234 kgf 0.60 0.54 0.49 0.49 0.39 Optimal 2,212 kgf
(0 km/h) 2,234 kgf
(0 km/h) 0.60 0.54 0.49 0.49 0.39 Survivability and armour
At its rank there is little which cannot hurt the G.91. This is mostly due to the large calibres and fast-firing weapons found in the jet age, although the Gina does not help this issue. The armour is enough to withstand the occasional tank LMG fire but otherwise will only protect the pilot from shrapnel damage. Even though the centerline arrangement of all components proves to be quite survivable in combat, it does NOT lend itself for head-ons or prolonged chases. The former only leads to functional aircraft with a dead pilot and the latter to the reverse, which was in all likelihood the intended design in real life.
6.5 mm Steel - Behind, below and in front of the pilot
6.5 mm Steel - under central fuel tanks.
40 mm bulletproof glass - Armoured windshield
Critical components located down the midline of aircraft (fuel, pilot, engine, controls)
Fuel tanks located in the central fuselage. Armaments Offensive armament Main article : M3 Browning (12.7 mm)
The G.91 R/1 is armed with:
4 x 12.7 mm M3 Browning machine guns, nose-mounted (300 rpg = 1,200 total)
The M3 Browning is a new weapon in the Italian arsenal at this 5th tier and compared to the previous experiences a letdown. The rate of fire is phenomenal, but the small calibre and ammo size put a serious damper to the mood, that is in comparison of course. In practice and with good aim, it can easily shred four fighters. The high bullet velocity and fire rate is quite the advantage in the fast-paced world of jet combat, ensuring hits in deflection shots where the lower rate of fire found in the Soviet jet fighters might have failed the pilot.
Yet one will always look onto greener pastures, especially as the Gina only has four guns unlike all other Browning armed jets. No matter how you turn it, the armament is only manageable with skill and for a beginner outright bad. Suspended armament Main articles : AN-M64A1 (500 lb) , FFAR Mighty Mouse
The G.91 R/1 can be outfitted with the following ordnance:
Without load
2 x 500 lb AN-M64A1 bombs (1,000 lb total)
38 x FFAR Mighty Mouse rockets
The G.91 is a fighter and it shows in the additional payloads. They should only be considered for a quick drop on the way to the combat zone, losing height/speed advantage in doing so, or once aerial dominance has already accomplished. Even then many other jets are way better suited for ground attacks.
The bombs are standard fare and often not worse the hassle with their low total yield. The FFAR rockets are a far better option allowing to tackle more than one target, even though they only work well against soft target and up to medium tanks. Usage in battles
Air superiority is the combat objective for the G.91 Gina , anything else is secondary. In team games lure enemy fighters into extensive and excessive dogfights to allow your heavier and less nimble allies to Boom and Zoom or Boom and Run them. With their great thrust to weight ratio, the G.91 can maintain their energy superiority and in emergencies (such as non-existant teamplay) to disengage. Alternatively, standard Boom Zoom is a considerable choice. Again the great acceleration allows for more energy-expensive manoeuvres and still disengage without much worry from the target. Such follies would be deadly in many other fighters, but the Gina is hence quite forgiving. In fact too forgiving, new pilots to the jet age need to lose old habits and the G.91 does not force one's hand.
Against bombers and ground attack craft the G.91 lacks necessary firepower and it will take considerable ammo use to compensate for this. The measly protection against defensive fire makes this a dangerous task anyway and should thusly be left for better-equipped allies.
The very same can be said for ground attacks. While being able to mount air-to-ground ordnance, the payload yield is minuscule. The FFAR pods are the only worthwhile consideration but run against the G.91's intended role of Air Superiority Fighter. Modules Tier Flight performance Survivability Weaponry I Fuselage repair Compressor Offensive 12 mm II New boosters Airframe SBC-17 III Wings repair Engine New 12 mm MGs IV G-suit Cover FFAR Mighty Mouse
A focus should be done on the engine modules, as the G.91 lives by its T/W ratio. New boosters is a double-edged sword, as without the G-Suit one is just blackout earlier. This oddly makes the Bomb unlock a tantalizing choice, especially in already won matches for farming on ground units before the game ends. Airframe and cover do little, the weight savings are very minor and without them, the G.91 can still easily reach top speeds and rip off its wings.. Pros and cons
Pros:
Low weight, high thrust-to-weight ratio
Great turn time for a jet; can give the MiG-15 a run for its money
Great acceleration and climb rate
4 x M3 machine guns can be deadly if aimed correctly and used in close range
Cons:
It has a slower speed relative to the jets it will encounter
Short burst time due to low ammo count
Limited ground attack abilities
Bleeds off a lot of speed in a full elevator turn
Can rip its wings off if you pull full elevator past 800 km/h History
The first production version of the G.91 was the G.91 R, which was intended for both close support and photo-reconnaissance. The first production aircraft was finished in 1959, and the R/1 entered Italian Air Force service with 14th Gruppe in March 1961. In total 48 of this model would be built, all serving with Italy, while the West Germans used the more powerfully armed R/3 and R/4 variants. These would be followed by another 50 R/1B combat aircraft.
Winner of the 1953 NATO light tactical support aircraft competition, the Fiat 'Small Sabre' would be in production for 19 years, with 756 aircraft completed, with the last aircraft produced in 1977. It served in the Italian and West German air forces starting in 1961 and 1962 respectively.
The original competition specifications called for a jet able to carry 450 kg of ordnance with an operational radius of 180 km, assuming 10 minutes over the target, with a maximum speed of at least Mach 0.95 and a takeoff distance of no more than 1100m, on unprepared or grass runways. Eight aircraft competed in the first round, including the French Dassault Etendard (then called the Mystere XXVI) and the British Folland Gnat. The Etendard, the G.91 and a Breguet design were selected for the second round beginning in late 1957. Fiat went ahead with pre-production ('pre-serie' in Italian) aircraft, with first flight in August 1956, seven months ahead of its competitors. The crash of the first prototype due to aeroelastic vibrations in February 1957, proved a setback, but the G.91 entered the second round as scheduled and was announced as the winner in January 1958.
Critics said Fiat had just copied the F-86 Sabre, which it was manufactured under license, but these claims seem unwarranted. Operational service evaluations with the Italian air force's 103 Squadron ran from February to July 1959, leading to a West German decision to manufacture the aircraft under license. Media Skins Videos The Shooting Range 46 - Pages of History section at 05:29 discusses the G.91. 'How to fly the Fiat G.91R/1' - McChickenBites See also
F-86A-5 Sabre - combat role predecessor
La-15 and Yak-30 - similar flight style War Thunder - German Starter Pack Cracked External links
Fiat Aviation ( Fiat Aviazione ) Attacker F.C.20 Bis Fighters CR.32 CR.32 bis CR.32 quater CR.42 Marcolin's C.R.42 CN G.50 serie 2 G.50 AS serie 7 G.55 sottoserie 0 G.55 serie 1 G.55S G.56 Jet fighters G.91 pre-serie G.91 R/1 G.91 YS F-86K* F-104S* Bombers B.R.20DR B.R.20M M1 Export J11 G.91 R/3 G.91 R/4 G.91 R/4 Captured CR.42 Marcolin's C.R.42 CN G.50 serie 2 G.50 AS serie 7 *Licensed See also North American Aviation Lockheed Martin War Thunder - German Starter Pack Crackers
Italy jet aircraft Fiat G.91 pre-serie G.91 R/1 G.91 R/4 G.91 YS Foreign F-84G-21-RE CL-13 Mk.4 F-86K F-104S Vampire FB 52A
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